Відео

Prop specialists.

No LS1 swap etc., but a Stage II engine upgrade.

Interesting. Do you mean the fader physically gets stuck, or the sound doesn’t work in certain positions? You may be able to open up the mixer and get at that part to try cleaning it.

@@scottschiller The fader gets stuck. I have everything disassembled laying right in front of me as we speak. The plastic part where the rails are going through has wear marks. The holes on one side begin to turn oval, white plastic residue is collecting- I would think because of the friction. I cleaned it as best as I could but I am feeling that rhe fader will get stuck again. I have this mixer for around 20 years, went with me to some outdoor jams. The rhing has seen some things. Brave warrior. At the moment I am also trying to fix the broken spring from the phono/line/flash switch. I lost the little ball bearing. Omg. Wish me luck.

@SoloArtForm Ah! I wish you luck on your repair journey. 😅 If you can’t fix it, you may be able to find a replacement via eBay. I’ve seen some SK-2F and similar models on there for pretty cheap, especially if they have a missing power supply, knob or broken line/phono switch.

@@scottschiller Will check for spare parts. Thanks and also rhanks for the video.

@@SoloArtForm Most welcome, and best of luck! These are great mixers.

Have you reproduced these results using one? In my finding, those inexpensive adapters are less likely to work on 5.25" drives. What has been more successful (and still not "perfect") is a set-up using the SMSC floppy controller chip. I do recommend trying a few of those inexpensive ones, because I only have one generic "FDD@1306" model.

I didn't make it clear. Copters are precious. Anytime you'd lose one was an, "Aww f**k" moment.

This is 100% true, and “copters are precious” as I’m sure you know is one of the game tips that scroll by. You should be able to purchase them with the H key, for 20 funds apiece. I have yet to implement that, almost a dozen years out. With the current “unlimited” setup, you have the choice of restraining yourself to three chopper losses and adjusting strategy accordingly-or not. I may add a “lives” option that enforces the 3 choppers, plus the ability to purchase them.

I never thought of banking up on the first battle, this is a good idea. 😆

I know there are replica suits available for this sort of thing-it’s tempting, and it would make for some fun photos. 😆☢️ Noted RE: AA, that is an ongoing work in progress. I played it back in the day myself, 91-94 or thereabouts.

Interesting history and context, thanks. I think I’ve seen vague mentions of DIY varispeed mods for older (MK1-3?) models, but I haven’t seen any schematics outside of Studer / Revox’s own service manuals which connect to the capstan motor PCB typically found in MK IV models which uses ICs like the 555 timer.

@@scottschiller You can identify the varispeed mod by an extra 1/4" jack placed an inch or two above the headphone jack. This is where the varispeed controller plugs in. It's always the same type jack: black, Cliff brand. These jacks weren't too common in the US, so I presume they were sold in kits to A77 owners. There was another amazing mod called "sel-sync" requiring an extra monitor card and allowing an A77 to play and record simultaneously so you could multitrack back and forth with only 2 tracks.

@ghostexits Great info, thanks. I doubt I’ll be acquiring more tape decks soon myself, but this is handy for all to see. And, never say never. 😆

“Great Scott! A comment from another universe which must have overlapped with our own!” 🤯 “Captain, I find this highly illogical.“ 🖖 😉 Sir; it is a great honour and a privilege. I am indebted to the artists and designers who come up with such wonderful concepts loved by so many, and the teams that bring them to life. Thanks to a number of prop specialists and one classic car company, I can *really* surprise people when I go out for coffee. It is a joy and a great privilege to be able to share it with others. ua-cam.com/video/fC3LS8jUe90/v-deo.html

Oxidation is suspected. support.delorean.com/kb/a52/fuse-box-and-melted-fuses.aspx

As with any classic or vintage car, there will inevitably be a few service items; and the DeLorean is no stranger to this, indeed! BTTF conversion aside, this car certainly has a reputation - mostly for its electrical system flaws. It turns out my issue was fuse #7 burned up, the circuit which includes the fuel pump. I learned that I was supposed to replace all 17 fuses yearly as they corrode due to being unfortunately located above the battery, both behind the passenger seat. I was almost three years out, and now I will be better about maintenance. This is the first real issue I've had where the car failed and wouldn't start. ua-cam.com/video/5c4QLDdL4gM/v-deo.html Nice Flux Capacitor sequencer circuit, BTW! ;)

My biggest fan and supporter. 😆🙇‍♂️

Oxidation. Over time, the electrical contacts on your charging cable can become corroded or tarnished.

That keeps things exciting! 😂 (It's not actually on fire, but LEDs + smoke are effective.)

Less likely, as earlier units didn’t have the capstan (motor) speed control board with “integrated circuit” chips, like the 555 timer. If your machine has chips, it may be someone swapped in a newer board at one point and then this mod is worth trying.

@@scottschiller thanks so much for the reply! and thanks for your advice. i'll have a look and see.

That’s what the first four words of this video say. “If you have an iPhone…” 😉 The 15 and others with USB-C have more complex connections and are less likely to benefit from liquids, I think.

If not corrosion, try checking your phone’s charging port for lint etc. Try using a plastic tooth floss pick, the end that has the little pointy bit is handy for scooping out the charge port.

@@scottschillerI already cleaned it before doing this

@IgongAgustin Hmm. Try a different cable and power supply, see if one or the other might be the cause.

“Marty, I'm sure that in 1985, plutonium is available in every corner drugstore, but in 1955, it's a little hard to come by. I’m afraid you’re stuck here! 😬”

99% isopropyl alcohol, also called “IPA” for short-but not the kind of beer. 😉 It may also be referred to as “rubbing alcohol.” The 99% kind is preferable as it is more pure, which means less other gunk that could be left on your phone when it dissolves.

@@scottschiller thanks!

It helps keep me on time-not necessarily in tune. 😅

This was a fun project, and I was really glad when I got my DIY varispeed mod working. If you can find a B77 (maybe Mark 2 or later with varispeed support, memory is fuzzy), you can build a varispeed control similarly or buy one - the originals are very expensive, but a few dollars of components. I have a longer video on how I built mine, and more demos here. ua-cam.com/play/PLIACRGgedheXDytnZ8pEZqu8aR1yXuPu_.html

us

Ah-ha, good to hear you sorted it out. Lint is also a known cause! I recommend the curved pointy end of a plastic dental floss pick for removing lint from both Apple’s lightning-style, and USB C-style ports.

I hope my instructions and code are OK! 😅 The version of Wordle I’ve pointed to may have changed and dropped out of CDN cache etc., so let me know if you run into any trouble. Ideally, the web archive version should have all the files you need. Also, the Vestaboard should be much more responsive in terms of update time for API calls - I was on an old firmware at the time of making this video.

@@scottschiller More than OK, it was the leg up I needed, I now having board announcing high and low tide times which was my goal - thank you again

Great to hear!

The real stuff, apparently, is a little hard to come by. 😉

I forgot to reply to this earlier, sorry. Most of the motion / animated stuff is from “el wirecraft”, UK-based website and also on eBay.